The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears or the sea.
The Danish author Isak Dinesen said that and I’ve always found it to be true.
People who live within a stone’s throw of the ocean know it too, which is why hotels like Dunmore House in Clonakilty open their doors on a craggy edge of the Atlantic and never close; the same guests return again and again decades later for their fill of salty air and sea therapy.
Except at Dunmore House there’s more to it than simply blowing away the cobwebs. Run by Carol and Richard Barret and their family, this is a place offering complete peace from the distractions and noise of the city.
There are no clampers here. No spinning classes or protein bars, no Netflix, no swearing at lorry drivers on the Naas dual carriageway.
The magical effect begins in the lobby, which is filled with the scent of fresh baked scones.
The seascape fills almost every window, making for brand new views as the day moseys on into dusk, so even if the weather isn’t up to much, you can still soak up the seaside vibes.
And the silence.
If you’re a city slicker like me, the complete lack of noise (apart from the odd wave breaking somewhere) is almost unnerving at first.
Ten minutes in however, you wonder how you survive the constant racket at home on a daily basis.
After checking in to a comfy room overlooking the Atlantic ocean (you’ll find a woolen-cashmere throw and luxe L’Occitane products in each) we found a spot on the sun-drenched terrace.
Perched there, we sipped cold white wine as a wedding party posed for photographs in front of the rolling ocean, the warm spring breeze blowing their hair, enjoying the weird and wonderful feeling of doing absolutely nothing.
Dinner
The sea air helps work up a serious appetite and the chef cooks for people who like to eat. The spring lamb and sirloin steak we ordered arrived with a parade of sides, including decadent dauphinois potatoes and a heaping bowl of roast veg.
My death row meal would include a serving of the crab claws served in the Adrift restaurant at night (7pm to 9pm), lounging in a creamy garlic sauce. The scallops were to die for too, cooked to perfection in butter.
The bottle of Rioja we chose was a highlight (a Muriel Crianza Fincas de la Villa 2013, if you’re taking notes) and it got the nod of approval from Richard, who was on hand to talk us through the menu in the restaurant, alongside his daughter Julie.
Served until 10:30am breakfast is a considered selection of home cooking (try the chorizo potato topped with a fried egg) and lovely local foods.
There’s yogurts from Glenilen Farm (just down the road in Drimoleague), big bowls of stewed rhubarb and fresh fruit salads, even Carrageen Moss pudding – a local delicacy made from seaweed gathered off the south and west coasts of Ireland (try it – it’s much tastier than it sounds and super good for you).
Local jams with handwritten labels surround boards of fresh bread and pots of butter.
The bar
Every West Cork kitchen has its own chowder and you can try the Dunmore House version (light and creamy) in the bar with fresh brown bread at any time of day.
Grab a seat on the terrace and lose yourself in your thoughts over a pint, gazing out over the vast horizon that stretches out as far as the sky.
At night the bar is buzzing with conversation and groups settle into the cosy armchairs near the roaring fire in the lobby.
Man’s best friend is more than welcome
In a refreshing break from the norm, well behaved dogs are welcome at Dunmore House, with pet-friendly rooms available.
It makes sense: there’s so much to explore on foot nearby it would be a shame if Rover missed out on the long beach walk and country rambles.
Adventures await
If it’s surf you’re after, hit Inchydoney beach with your board or book a lesson at West Cork Surf School. Sandy beaches can be found at Duneen, Red Strand, Long Strand, Ownahincha and the Warren to the West and Simons Cove, Nuns Cove, Broadstrand and Courtmacsherry to the East.
The hotel boasts its own nine-hole golf course (there are 18 hole courses in nearby Bandon, Skibbereen, Bantry and the Old Head of Kinsale) and Clonakilty is a €10 taxi ride away if you fancy a stroll around the shops.
Even if you don’t feel like leaving the hotel, at least pop out to the field out front, home to four fantastically friendly Shetland ponies.
If it’s even more Instagram-worthy shots you’re after, seek out Rathbarry Church. Carrigfadda (at a height of 180m is the highest point locally with spectacular views).
Anything to add?
Yes; if there was an award for cleanest hotel, Dunmore House would win hands down. There isn’t a hotel more polished, manicured and sparkling. I’m still not quite sure how they manage it.
We’ll be back
As we read the papers in the cosy lobby on Easter Sunday morning, Carol nips by, discretely popping a chocolate Easter bunny on our table with a wink.
Everyone is made to feel like part of the family at Dunmore House. And everyone leaves wishing that they really were.
Bed and Breakfast packages at Dunmore House start at just €69 per person sharing, with two-night getaways including four-course dinner from €169.
